Battikha Brakes & Suspension offers complete suspension service for cars, trucks and four-wheel drives.

Brakes & Brake Services

Tow vehicle suspension upgrading is also offered. The manufacturer-installed suspension system on most vehicles cannot handle the weight and torque of a trailer, leading to poor towing performance. To optimize the handling and fuel economy of your tow vehicle, consider upgrading your suspension system with heavy-duty shocks and springs

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  • Shoes
  • Cylinders
  • Discs
  • Disc & Drum Machining

Whether you are looking for heavy-duty trailer brakes, upgraded springs and shocks for your four by four or a wheel alignment on your sports car, contact the experts at Battikha Brakes and Suspension in Amman today. You can count on Jihad Battikha and his crew to deliver quick, affordable service using only top-quality name brand components and quality work to keep you and your family safe both on and off the road.

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Battikha Brakes and Suspension offers complete suspension service for cars, trucks and four-wheel drives. A failure in your suspension system can lead to poor vehicle handling, creating a dangerous situation for you and your passengers, while inadequate suspension components can cause premature wear to your tires, brakes, shocks and springs.

Accurate electrical diagnosis is one of the most difficult challenges to be found when working on today’s automobiles. Considering the large number of systems that use electricity in order to operate, being able to quickly diagnose electrical problems can be a real asset. Whether you are attempting to diagnose an engine control issue, an automatic ride height system, or a power window issue, the electrical systems all utilize the same principles.

Often, diagnosing electrical problems is more mental work than it is turning a wrench. Ninety percent of solving an electrical problem will be done without ever opening your toolbox. The last ten percent of the solution is involved in testing and repairing the circuit.
When it comes to computer controlled systems there is sometimes even more mystery to the way electricity works. Some technicians have been known to resort to replacing a computer, not because they know it is bad, but because they are not sure how it works and they see nothing else wrong.

When replacing the computer doesn’t work, they then try a different part, only to eventually discover that it was faulty wiring that was causing the computer to provide improper output.

By understanding what a computer needs in order to function properly and then ensuring that it has everything it needs to do its job, a technician can successfully determine whether the computer needs to be replaced.

Following a few simple, and easy to remember steps, will mean a confident diagnosis and a “fixed right, first time” repair for your customer.

Voltage

Now that we understand what electricity is, why would electrons want to move?
Electrons need some sort of “push” to leave their atom and get moving. This push is called voltage. It is helpful to think of voltage as electrical pressure.

The unit of measurement for voltage is the volt, generally designated as ‘V’. The letter E is used in formulas to denote voltage when discussing the relationship of voltage to current and resistance. This comes from that fact that voltage is considered electro-motive force.
There are two types of voltage: alternating current and direct current.

Direct current voltage (DC voltage) is voltage that is applied in one direction all of the time. Many automotive systems use direct current to get their jobs done. Automotive batteries supply direct current to the electrical circuits.

Alternating current voltage (AC voltage) is voltage that is applied in one direction at one given time, and the opposite direction at another given time. The electricity found in the electrical outlet of your house wiring is an example of alternating current voltage.

There are some automotive systems that will use, or produce AC voltage instead of DC voltage. Examples of these might be various speed and position sensors, electric motors, or alternators.

Measuring Current

Voltage is responsible for putting pressure on electrons and making them leave their atoms. The term for how many electrons are moving is current. You can think of current, or amperage, as the volume of electrons that are moving.

The unit of measurement for current is the ampere, or amps for short. An ampere is a known quantity of electrons passing a single point at a given time. The actual quantity of electrons in an amp is equal to 6.24 x 1018 electrons per second (or one coulomb of electrons per second). The letter I denotes current in formulas.

Like voltage, current comes in two forms: DC current and AC current. DC current is electrons moving in one direction only, while AC current is electrons moving in one direction at a given time, and then the opposite direction at another given time.
Most electrical systems on automobiles utilize direct current.

Resistance

The third term that is associated with the movement of electrons is resistance. Resistance is opposition to the flow of electrons. Resistance gets in the way of electrons moving and can build up electrical “pressure” at the point of resistance so that less voltage is available to move other electrons.

The unit of measurement for resistance is the ohm. The ohm is show by the Greek letter Ω. In formulas, the letter R is used to denote resistance.

To measure voltage with your meter, first place the black meter lead in the “com” jack. Secondly, place the red meter lead in the “V” jack.

Now you must set the meter to read the voltage that you intend on measuring. To do this you must first decide whether you are measuring AC or DC voltage. Most automotive systems are operating on DC voltage. However, if you are measuring sensor output voltage at the sensor itself, or at an ECU input, then you may need to set the meter to read AC voltage. Knowing how the sensor works will be critical to choosing which voltage setting to use.

Next, set the meter to “Auto Range”. If your meter does not have an “Auto Range” function, then you will have to decide approximately how much voltage you expect to encounter. Set the meter to read the highest voltage you think that you are likely to encounter. You can always change the meter range later if your meter reading seems to not be accurate enough.

With the meter now properly set up and the meter leads plugged in, it’s time to measure some voltage. There are two ways of measuring voltage: voltage available and voltage drop.

Voltage Available

Voltage available is voltage that is present at any given point in the circuit. You can measure voltage available by placing the red meter lead at some point in the circuit (switch contact, fuse, connector, etc.) and the black meter lead on a known good ground. This test will tell you how much voltage, or electrical pressure, is present to do some work at a given point in the circuit.

The voltage available test is good for determining if you have voltage present, but it does not do much in the way of diagnosing what is wrong with the circuit.

For example: say you’ve placed the red lead on the B+ wire leading into a power window switch and the black lead on a known good ground. You observe a meter reading of 9.4 volts, but the window does not go down when the switch is operated.

All that you’ve really determined is that some voltage is getting to the switch, but you haven’t measured anything that can lead you to what is wrong with the circuit.

Voltage available is a good test to use when you want to see whether voltage is present at a point in the circuit or not. Think of the voltage available test as a “go, no go” type of test.
Do not use the voltage available test to determine whether a circuit is functioning properly or not. There may be voltage present at a point in the circuit, but that does not mean that the circuit has what it needs to work.

The second voltage test, and by far the most useful, is called a voltage drop test.
We say that voltage is “dropped” when some form of load uses all, or a portion of, the voltage available.

Loads come in the form of light bulbs, motors, solenoids, heating elements, etc. Other loads may be found in the form of corrosion, poor switch contacts, or even an open circuit. When a load of this type “uses up” or drops voltage, then it may not leave enough voltage available to the rest of the circuit for the circuit to work properly. A voltage drop test will help you to isolate where voltage is being dropped, or used up.

Unlike resistance measurements where the circuit is not turned on, a voltage drop test is performed with the circuit working (i.e. the headlights are on, the window is being moved up and down, etc.).

To perform a voltage drop test you must place the meter leads at two points within the circuit. Remember, during the voltage available test we place the leads at one point in the circuit and the other at a known good ground. In the voltage drop test, both meter leads will be placed in the circuit.

With the meter leads placed in the circuit, you are now measuring how much electrical pressure, or voltage, is present between the meter leads. If you measure any voltage at all on the meter display, then there must be some sort of load between the meter leads.
Your next job is to determine whether the load that is represented on the meter display is a load that is supposed to be there, or whether it is a load that may be harmful to the circuit. Remembering a few simple rules will allow you to determine if the voltage drop you are measuring is “normal” or not.

  • A meter reading of less than 0.1 volts represents a wire, or switch that is operating normally.
  • A meter reading of full source voltage (i.e. 12.6 v or more) represents all of the available voltage being dropped. This could be due to an open wire, or it may be a “normal” load that happens to be the only load in the circuit.

Current Measurement

The third measurement that can be useful in electrical diagnosis is the measurement of current, or of how many electrons are flowing. Remember, current is measured in amperes, or amps for short. Like the voltage drop test, an advantage of measuring current is that the circuit will be performing its function, making this a “real world” test.

There are three drawbacks to measuring current. The first drawback is that current specifications for even common circuits can be hard to come by. This leaves the technician to find a specification on their own, usually by comparing the problem vehicle and problem circuit to a normally operating circuit on a comparable vehicle. This takes time and can lead to inadvertent problems on the known good vehicle.

The second drawback to testing current during diagnosis is in the way the meter must be installed in the circuit. Since current measurements are actually measuring how many electrons are flowing in the circuit, all of the electrons in the circuit must pass through the meter. This means that the meter must become part of the circuit.

An ammeter must be installed in series with the circuit, at a location where the maximum current within the circuit will flow through the meter. This involves opening the circuit up and connecting the meter leads in series with the circuit.

There are a number of good locations for opening up a circuit up to install the meter, with the most popular, and often the easiest, being at a circuit fuse. This is done by removing the fuse and installing the meter leads on either side of the fuse connectors.

The third drawback to using current as a diagnostic tool is that you may not know how much current is flowing before you install your meter. The current flowing is often more than what your meter can handle. Although a quality meter is fused, often these fuses will blow when trying to measure current because the circuit being tested uses higher current than what your meter is designed for.

To get around these last two drawbacks, technicians will use an “amp clamp” or an inductive ammeter. This device uses the electromagnetic field that forms when electricity flows through a conductor in order to determine how much current is flowing in a circuit.
Amp clamps have two significant advantages: firstly the circuit does not have to be opened up to install the ammeter, and secondly the amount of current flowing in the circuit cannot damage the meter. The disadvantage is that you must purchase an amp clamp that measures the range of current you expect to find. It is not possible to purchase a single clamp that will measure all current ranges.

 

With over 30 years experience in auto repair and specifically transmission and gearbox repairs, Battikha can provide a repair service that excels through both experience and the use of the latest technical fault diagnosis equipment.

 

10 Most Common Transmission Problems

Determining what problem(s) your car has may seem like an impossible task, especially to the untrained eyes and ears of the average driver. It may be helpful to think of your car’s inner workings as similar to that of the human body. For instance, if you have chest pain that could point toward any number of health issues, but if the chest pain exists in addition to difficulty breathing, then it is much more likely that asthma (or something very similar) is the cause. Automotive problems are diagnosed in a similar manner. Problems that involve mechanical systems typically exhibit distinct sensations and sounds that act as indicators that a certain process isn’t working the way it is intended to. As soon as you recognize that something seems a bit “off” with your vehicle’s functionality, it is time to assess the issue and look for a way to fix it.

Diagnosing car problems yourself may seem like an impossible task, but try to think of it in terms of your own body. For instance, if your stomach begins to hurt without warning, you’ll probably start thinking of the last thing you ate in order to figure out why you’re having the pain. A similar type of thinking goes into diagnosing car trouble. The moment you start noticing something out of the ordinary, it’s time to start considering the problem and finding a way to fix it.

Your car’s transmission is a complex mechanical system that controls the application of power from the engine to the driveshaft. It experiences more wear and tear over time than most other parts of your vehicle due to the heat and friction produced by their many moving and interacting components. Major issues are bound to arise if your transmission is not well maintained and/or symptoms of a problem are not checked by a professional soon after they develop.

Transmission repairs or replacements are inconvenient, stressful and typically quite expensive, so it’s a good idea to pay attention to any activity that seems unusual. Adhering to the recommended maintenance procedures and schedule intended to prevent problems will help your transmission last longer, perform better and require fewer repairs over its lifespan. That said, if you’re having some car trouble, it is important to know what the most common types of transmission problems are so that you can easily diagnose them and get them fixed. Here is a list of 10 symptoms of transmission trouble and what signs you should look for.

 

Lack of Response

Ever notice that while driving that the car hesitates or refuses to go into gear? If you have, then there is definitely something wrong. The moment a driver shifts from park to drive the car should immediately go into the proper gear. For automatic transmissions, you might notice that when shifting into drive or park that there is a delay before you feel the gear engage. This is usually a transmission-based concern. Manual transmissions can have the same lacking response issue, but after shifting into gear the engine’s RPMs will surge, but the car won’t move as fast as the engine sounds like it’s going. This is usually caused by a clutch that needs to be replaced, but may sometimes point to a more severe problem.

Whining, Clunking and Humming

It’s impossible to say exactly what your car will sound like when there is trouble with your transmission, but one thing is for sure, you’ll get a “I haven’t heard that sound before” feeling when you notice it. The sounds that are produced vary widely between different makes and models, but the best way to describe them is that you’ll probably hear a humming, buzzing or whining noise.

Manual transmissions will emit sounds that can be described as being slightly more mechanical, louder and abrupt sounding. A clunking sounds when you shift gears almost always lies within a transmission, while constant velocity joins or the differential may be the source if the clunking is coming from the underside of your car.

As mentioned already, it is always best to get the problem diagnosed and repaired as soon as possible and not wait until later when you “find the time” or “have the money”. If you wait until later what would have been a relatively inexpensive repair can easily become a much more costly one.

Leaking/Low Fluid

A leak is probably the most recognizable symptom and should be repaired as soon as possible. Letting the fluid leak is one of the most common causes transmission break down. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is the life-blood of a transmission as it lubricates, cleans and conditions the seals and acts as hydraulic fluid. Without it (or even if it gets too low), the engine will seize up and stop working completely.

ATF is bright red in color, clear and smells somewhat sweet if everything is working correctly. If this is what you find on your driveway, then all that needs to be fixed is the hole. If the fluid is dark and/or has a burnt smell then it’s time to get the fluid changed or flushed and repairs might be required. To check if you’re running low on fluid, take your car for a short drive to warm it up and then lift the hood and read the dipstick (be sure the vehicle is on level ground). Unlike motor oil, transmission fluid is not burned off or consumed by a car so if the level is low then there is a leak somewhere that must be patched. It is recommended to top up the fluid anyway even if the leak still exists to make sure there is enough fluid for the transmission to function properly until you get it fixed.

To check the fluid level for a manual transmission, you must check at the transmission case (usually through the fill plug) – not with a dipstick under the hood.

Grinding or Shaking

A car is supposed to run smoothly and without any shaking, or jerking, and there is not supposed to be any grinding sounds. These all suggest that there is a problem with the gears. Manual transmissions commonly indicate problems by making a grinding noise or feeling when you shift into a gear. If the grinding occurs after engaging the clutch and shifting, this can be sign that the clutch may need to be replaced or adjusted. That said, it can also point towards several other issues including damaged or worn out gear synchronizes.

Automatic transmissions act a little differently. Instead of making a grinding noise, you will likely feel it take some time to wiggle into gear at first instead of the typical smooth transitions. As the problem gets worse, the transitions into the next gear become more jarring and involve more shaking. There are a few other reasons for grinding or shaking, but the appropriate course of action is still to have it inspected and serviced.

Burning Smell

Any burning smell coming from your car is a cause for concern. Overheating transmission fluid is one of the causes of a burning smell. Transmission fluid helps keep the parts lubricated and cooled so that they don’t get worn out and damaged. If the fluid breaks down, the system runs too hot which it results in increased friction and corrosive activity as well as the build up of additional sludge and debris. If this is not taken care of, the transmission will eventually damage itself enough to break down completely. The end result is an expensive replacement. Common causes include low fluid level or using the incorrect brand/type of fluid. To check for these, see the instructions in the section on Low/Leaking Fluid above.

Refuses to Go Into Gear

If the car will not shift after engaging the clutch and trying to move the stick, take a look at the fluid to make sure that it is at the right level. Other causes include using the incorrect thickness (type) of fluid and the clutch linkage or shift cables needing adjustment. The source of the problem could also be the vehicle’s computer system. If you’ve already inspected the fluid, you can try resetting it. To do this, detach the battery and let it stand for thirty minutes. Then, reattach and allow the system to reset itself. This usually takes around thirty minutes. If this doesn’t work either, then it’s time to take it to a mechanic.

Check Engine Light

The check engine light located on your car’s dashboard is a great early indicator that something is about to go wrong (or already has) with your car, and in particular with your transmission. While the light turns on for a number of reasons other than transmission issues, it very important not to ignore this helpful warning sign. There are sensors placed in many areas of a car’s engine that alert the computer if it senses unusual activity coming from a particular process. The sensors on a transmission can pick up on the slightest jerks and vibrations than you are not able to see or feel.

Take the vehicle in and have it inspected. They can take look and immediately tell what is happening through the use of similar diagnostic tools and the car’s computer. If you’d like to diagnose the problem yourself (and possibly save yourself a trip to the mechanic’s) you can buy a diagnostic scan tool that is plugged into the instrument panel on the driver’s side and return a code that corresponds to the part that needs attention. Whatever you do, do not assume that the check engine light can wait because it might be warning you of a serious problem in the near future.

Transmission Noisy in Neutral

Luckily, a transmission that is noisy (goes “bump”) when it is in neutral could have an inexpensive, simple solution such as adding some fluid or changing it. This could do the trick, as it does for several other issues on this list. If that doesn’t work, the transmission may require professional attention to replace worn out parts, most commonly the bearings, worn gear teeth or the reverse idler gear.

Gears Slipping

A transmission stays in a designated gear until a shift is performed by the driver (manual) or the computer (automatic). If the transmission is spontaneously slipping in an out of gear (or simply popping into neutral) while driving, I don’t need to tell you that this is a serious safety risk. When you need to step on the gas to avoid a dangerous situation, you need power delivered to the wheels, end of story. The cause can be the link that holds the gears is worn or broken. Get your car inspected and repaired as soon as possible.

Dragging Clutch

A dragging clutch describes the symptom experienced by manual transmissions that involves the clutch disk failing to disengage the flywheel when the clutch pedal is pressed. The clutch is still spinning with the engine which makes it anywhere from difficult to impossible to change gears. This difficulty is accompanied by a grinding noise each time you try to change gears. Fortunately, this problem is considerably less expensive to repair than many other issues. More often than not, the cause of this is too much slack in the clutch pedal. With too much slack available, the linkage between the clutch disk and pedal can’t pull the clutch disk away from the flywheel.